Entertainment and Eating Out
In contrast to loud and fast Bangkok and the raunchy go-go bars of infamous Phuket, nightlife in Chiang Mai is pretty low-key. Entertainment is more subdued but that does not mean nights are dead - there are decent places to chill out or boogie.

The atmospheric and scenic Mae Ping River is the best place to start. Lining the river is Charoen-Raj Road with restaurants doubling as trendy art galleries. Enjoy the food, soak in the hip yet casual atmosphere, it doesnt cost an arm and a leg. For intimacy, pick a table by the river under the lantern lit canopy of trees. The Gallery Restaurant and Bar is one of many good choices but stick to the food menu - much easier to swallow than the art prices.

Fall into a time warp at the 150 year-old teak Reginas Restaurant, filled with old treasures some of which are for sale. Excellent fried noodles are prepared by the petite owner in her 70s. Nearby is The Good View, a large restaurant with a nature zone by the river or an action zone with good rocking live bands.

Simply named The Pub is a typical British pub but with a slight Thai twist. Voted the worlds best bar by Newsweek in 1986, it serves traditional roast or BBQs on alternate Sundays. Ever-popular fish n chips are available daily and the welcoming Pub never misses a major sports game.

Both Khum Khantok and Plub Pla Thia on Super Highway do traditional Northern cuisine. Set in traditional Thai teak houses, diners nibble the Khantoke dinner while watching cultural dances. With no tables or chairs, you sit on colorful Thai cushions laid out around traditional trays filled with local goodies. Its unique to this region, but liable to leave you branded a typical tourist.

The top Italian restaurants are La Gritta within the Amari Rincome Hotel or 'Piccola Roma Palace' near the Chiang Mai Plaza Hotel. Diehard Pizza Hut fans will find an outlet near the Night Bazaar.

Near the Westin hotel is Le Coq Dor, an English country house establishment serving classic European cuisine for the past 30 years. Another old-timer is Chez Daniel. The chef hails from Normandy, France and the establishment has been dishing out homely French meals for 28 years.

Changklan Roads Night Bazaar is full of shops yet it has a fair range of restaurants and tasty snacks from hawker stalls. The Kalare Bazaar Food Center is a food court with a cultural show in a beer garden. Cock fighting, kick boxing, cabaret and traditional dance is not everybodys cup of tea, but for all that plus more food and shopping, try the nearby entertainment complex. Free shows from 4.30pm to midnight.

Try the fancy Elephant Bar at The Regent for cocktails and elegant dining with dramatic views of the Mae Rim Valley. Dine indoors or al fresco at famous Sala Mae Rim for fine Northern and vegetarian cuisine. The Regent is also known for its appealing landscaped gardens. Its high on both romance and price - a good place to impress a date.

Traditional Thai massages are a must for travellers, weary or not. For some serious pampering the Lanna Spa at The Regent is the epitome of self indulgence and has all the right elements to leave you invigorated from head to toe - but maybe a little broke.

If you have time, try one of the Thai cooking schools and boost your culinary skills. Classes from 1 to 5 days include poking around local markets for secret ingredients. Both Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School and Gaps Thai Culinary Art School have good reputations.

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Shopping

The Night Bazaar

Chiang Mais many ethnic goods are of varying quality. Beyond the cheap junk are some artistic cultural collectibles such as lacquer ware, teak carvings, ceramics, and textiles. Haggle, they will extend a little discount.

The Night Bazaar is a bustling area where the avenues stretch for miles with street vendors, shops, restaurants and bars. Come evening, carts wheel out Thai silk cushion covers and decorative pieces. A kaleidoscope of vendors and hill tribes trade with betel nut smiles. Most items sold are mass-produced, many shops sell the same old stuff. Although touristy, the place does have something going for it and its pleasant just to sit in a caf and people-watch.

Not far is the less touristy Loi Khor Rd, a much more pleasant stroll. Poke leisurely into rows of shops. Textile shops sell tribal motifs, hand woven cotton and hemp and inexpensive knick-knack shops have silk scarves and costume jewellery. Stylish boutiques also sell locally designed ready to wear clothing.

The Warorot Market is a typical local market with flowers, and vegetables, and is a good place to grab cheap T-shirts and munch on local nibbles.

Dont expect bargains in the factories along Sankampaeng and Borsang 20 minutes from the city center. Its an eye opener to see the manufacturing process of handicrafts such as paper umbrellas, lacquer ware, bronze and silk, but factories are all too quick to whoosh you into the shops and milk your money after a short explanation.

Reproduction Buddha images go for a song at the out-of-the-way village of Baan Tawai. Locals come here to shop for furniture and other curios in particular teak, which is abundant in the region.

Note: taking Buddhas out of Thailand requires a lot of tedious paperwork. Permits are required or they will be confiscated at the airport!

The Mae Ping River and Charoen-Raj Rd has a range of upscale antique showrooms and boutiques. Several elegant and nostalgic gallery-restaurants sell decent Eastern antiques.

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Getting From A to B

Tuk-tuk

Chiang Mai City has a good road system. Further out, countryside roads are winding but smooth, with few potholes.

Metered taxis are nonexistent. The best way to get around town is via small red pickups known locally as red taxi fitted with parallel benches for up to 8 bouncing passengers. Old and creaky but the cheapest transport.

The famous tuk-tuk is a noisy, fume-spluttering 3-wheeled moped with a roof and an ego. It is no chariot and they are not the most comfortable way to go but good fun nonetheless. Again haggle before getting in, and beware of the drivers that try to rope you into gem scams.

You can hire a car with a driver by the hour or by the day and motorcycles are only a few dollars a day to hire.

The overnight train with sleeping cabins to Bangkok takes 10 hours. Buses leave in the mornings and evenings and are even cheaper and take as long as the train.

Thai Airways fly daily to Bangkok in roughly an hour. Besides domestic links there are connections to neighbouring countries and Singapore. Chiang Mai International Airport is about 10 km out.

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Tours
Appreciating a pile of bricks or a flower often requires the services of a guide. Chiang Mai is more of a launch pad for the North, to make the most of your trip get out into the country.

Visiting indigenous hill tribes seems to a compulsory part of the Chiang Mai experience. The ride to remote villages can be long and the experience certainly varies. Busloads of daily invaders are somewhat of a routine for the villagers, yet they are never short of shy, welcoming smiles. Youll probably get a 10-minute talk and 30 minutes of souvenirs and poking around their homes - tasteless for some. Kids clamor up to camera wielding tourists for spare change and others pose for a picture then demand a fee.

Elephants

Elephants still reside in the forests where they once labored for teak. Now with almost nothing left to trim, they have been sent to elephant camps or safaris. An elephant ride is love at first sight. The slow, swaying ride through the forest and streams is tranquil and filled with surprises, a hungry elephant may stop for an unscheduled lunch break or another may sneeze on you. Hang on tight because once these gentle giants are on the move, youll be too.

Rickety bamboo rafting down the calm river involves balancing on a collection of long thick bamboo poles tied together. One wrong move and these unpredictable things tip over, all part of the fun. Sensibly belongings arent allowed on the raft but alarmingly there are no life vests either. The river is safe and calm but count on getting soaked. Not to be missed.

The Northern terrain is great for adventure tours and there are plenty of options for the fit. Mountain biking trails wind to Chiang Rai by day with overnight stop-offs. Trekking through Doi Inthanon National Park involve waterfalls, forests trails and spending a night in a simple village.

The exhausting but fulfilling day trip to the Golden Triangle near Chiang Rai is a case of been there done that as theres nothing in particular to see. The highlight is a quick snap of the Welcome To Golden Triangle signboard and the rest of the time takes in the view of three countries - Burma, Laos and Thailand. Its now somewhat commercial with crowds of vendors and children in traditional costumes posing for a picture - and then demanding cash. A boat ride along the Mekong River should take you to the Lao border. Tours include visits to hot springs, temple ruins, a few hill tribes plus a fair bit of souvenir shopping.

Near Chiang Rai are the famous long neck tribes famed for heavy rings around their elongated necks. These gentle and placid people seem proud that people travel far to see them and mostly welcome travellers to their humble wooden homes.

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Events

Wat Phra Singh

The years big event is Buddhist New Year or Songkran sometime around April. Also known as the water festival the New Year is marked with religious reverence and water splashing antics. Statues of Buddha get a ceremonial bathe and homes are thoroughly spring-cleaned. Water is used as a symbol of purification - the perfect excuse to drench everyone. Getting wet is part of the event and getting even is part of the fun.

In February a Flower Carnival sees colorful flower floats parading down the main street competing for the best display. Buak Hard Park blooms with bright flowers, this is Chiang Mai at its most colorful.

On Visaka Bucha day Buddhists commemorate the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha. The full moon around May sees a solemn candlelit pilgrimage shuffling 7km up to Prathat Doi Suthep.

Another major event is Loy Krathong. Small flower boats are extravagant arrangements of leaves, flowers, incense and a candle is lit along with a silent wish before setting them adrift the waterways. The Mae Ping River gets crowded with people watching the night skies fill with hot air paper balloons and the river twinkle with the warm candle glow. The date for Loy Krathong follows the Buddhist calendar for the full moon - usually around October or early November. A truly charming festival with firework displays - should not be missed.

December sees the Winter Fair including handicrafts stalls, all night entertainment and a Miss Chiang Mai beauty contest.

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Cyber Chiang Mai
Internet shops are mostly near the Night Bazaar. Many are just a hole in a wall with drink machines, fans and good connections. A dollar will keep you online for a few hours. The air-conditioned Green Leaf Restaurant And Teahouse on Sri Donchai Rd offers food and herbal infusions to surfers, as well as fast connections and office facilities. A little more but still very cheap.

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Tourist Information Offices
The best sources of tourist information are the many little independent tour operators scattered around the city. The reliable monthly Chiang Mai Guide is free at most hotels.

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